In Conversation With Fashion Brand Helikon XX
Created in the middle of a global pandemic, Helikon XX is the fashion of the future. Using sustainable materials to provide a more ethical life to their garments, they allow their customers to relish in a new creative world. After collaborating with the Newcastle University Fashion Society last year on our digital fashion show, allowing us to use her innovative outfits, Helikon XX creator, Aneta Šebestová, is back to talk all about what fashion means to her and what she has been up to since the show…
Firstly, I would just like to say it is great to speak to you again after your involvement in the NUFS digital fashion show last year. What did you think of the show?
A: I think what I found most important was the support of education, students and their approach to caring about the planet which involved partnership with Environmental Justice Foundation where they also raised money for last year. The whole show was separated into four topics which were four natural elements such as water, fire, earth and air. Without these basic elements it would be hard to imagine life on the planet and without caring, we wouldn’t be able to maintain the life in which we live. It was such a pure idea yet powerful and I really liked it from the beginning.
You have worked on many projects with magazines like Flanelle and Feroce. How do you come up with the concepts for these projects and where do you look for inspiration?
A: My ideas around HELIKON XX come quite naturally. I slowly wanted to develop stories and constantly growthe content which would bring new messages every now and then. My essential thoughts were to focus on developing the sort of stories about muses which shaped the brand from the beginning and finally now there is a space to talk about other messages as well. Inspiration comes very much randomly due to certain situations. Usually I get inspired by natural sceneries and places which can come with traveling and then hunting classical art as well. Meeting people and sharing ideas with them is an absolute flood of inspiration
Your brand focuses on ethical fashion. What do you do as a brand to ensure sustainable, yet good quality clothing for your customers?
A: I always try to explain that the production is made with a sustainable approach which means making things in a better way and more consciously, but there are definitely points which can be improved and I would love to focus on them during the process in time, especially sourcing better materials but generally speaking quite a big percentage of cheap scarves are made from PES / synthetics where all of these materials are very polluting and they are not compostable which means that they will stay in the ground forever with heavy affect. On the other hand silk is a natural material and biodegradable. The same process comes with digital print, such as one of the innovative and least polluting methods with sustainably sourced inks these days. Older techniques are problematic and require a high amount of chemicals, bleach and water. The production is based in the UK and it's specifically numbered as a capsule collection, meaning produce less and style better.
Your recent project was with Flanelle magazine named 'Explorative observation of nymphs' where you worked with artist Rossella Damiani. How did this all come about and did you face any challenges creating the concept?
A: Great question. I had already collaborated with dancers mainly from Trinity Laban before and then straight after with Rossella on this project with an amazing pole dancer and I have been genuinely amazed by the movement and expression, plus, London hides such a scene of great dancers so it kinda evolved into connecting a few main subjects together. Within the main project there were many challenges as it is mainly, some unpredictable situations/ cancellations, and I got covid before the first planned date and then when I started again, I had to make a plan B due to a dramatic forecast, but I suppose when you have a great team of amazing people everything goes way easier and at the end, you have to enjoy fun which comes with it.
On your website you mention that you founded Helikon XX through 'muses who showed me the path'. Who/what are your muses and why?
A: Another great one! I wanted to state a little phrase where during the process of development I am very much aware of getting a lot of inspiration all around me. Essentially I must start with my mum who is a full fountain of new images and music sources. My grandfather introduced me to the art world and brought me to artistic classes plus he initiated this constant curiosity about the never-ending process of seeing and exploring more. My boyfriend Nico was definitely one of the muses which I have been enjoying creating footage with. I was lucky to ‘get stuck’ in the flat with my flatmates during the pandemic where we all enjoyed making stuff together with Solene Riff (where we will be releasing another project soon) and Pia Schiele with her brand Loutre and we were all helping each other out and collaborated many times.
What does your creative process look like when designing products and coming up with ideas?
A: There is always research before the actual process which can sometimes take way more longer than the actual process of designing. The most important key is to set the direction of a drop/collection and what in particular will be the topic. Then the whole research might be collecting images, notes, scans and furthermore drawing/illustrating sketches. As soon as I feel I have enough material I start with editing pictures and illustrations in the program until I am finally satisfied with the result. I use a lot of my inspiration from past travels, places, books, and old documents. It's great to explore new events, I used to love going to V&A library for days and getting inspired e.g. in galleries, concerts, parties and raves.
It's almost impossible to find a business that hasn't been affected by covid-19. How has your brand been affected?
A: I cannot really talk about HELIKON XX as that has been created in the middle of the pandemic, but I can tell you that I have been designing prints for companies and as with many other industries, covid-19 really affected the whole process and economy across different sectors. For example, when you design prints for studios, sellers and agents have to travel the world to sell prints but obviously that had to stop during full lockdown. No-one really knows how long this goes on for and how it will affect the industry and employees. Many textile studios chose digital versions of meetings, but I can still see the difference and looking back it really happened for some reason. Definitely as fashion can’t go that way as it did before covid and that’s also why I believe (and hope) that it is the beginning of the end of fast fashion, mass production and so on.
Your brand celebrates body positivity and empowerment. How do you incorporate these elements into your fashion?
A: I suppose with our styling sometimes. I would love to see people wearing the item confidently and without fear. Empowering people of any gender to wear whatever they want in any way they want as long as they feel powerful and beautiful, I think that's the key. Also I wanted to created gender fluid pieces as I was always seeing a lot of garments specifically for either women or men and I missed this unisex accessories.
What would you say is the best thing about modern fashion?
A: A lot of development, progress, new technologies and new better materials. I studied textiles in Czechia where our University came up with the invention of new technology for production of flat nanofiber textiles and although there are pros and cons around nanofibers, they are very well used and helpful e.g. in the pharmaceutical and health sector. I honestly really enjoy digitalisation and connecting different fashion processes, seeing more Artificial Intelligence coming across and also connecting to fashion in a way, I found these topics incredibly interesting.
What is next in store for Helikon XX and what are you looking forward to in the future?
A: I am really looking forward to new collaborations and new projects. I will be focusing more on the new drop and collabs with artists, and I am hoping to be able to tell more stories. I genuinely enjoy connecting with people through the creative process and HELIKON XX has been so far a safe and explorative space for creatives and so I am looking forward to seeing it grow.
It has been a pleasure to speak to Aneta all about her brand and I am so impressed by her journey as a fashion designer and her determination to make the future of fashion a more sustainable place. Make sure to check her Instagram out: @helikon_xx and their website https://helikonxx.com/.
Written by Holly Turner
All pictures have been taken from Helikon xx website