Haute Couture Week - Is it a dying art?
Haute Couture Week A/W 2023 had taken place in Paris, and it has exceeded any and all expectations with convergence of creativity, inclusivity, and luxury. Witnessing the timeless artistry of haute couture gowns, meticulously crafted by hand to adorn the unique form of an individual client, stole the spotlight as the legendary fashion houses of the city unveiled astonishing displays of craftsmanship and creativity during the most breathtaking runway presentations of the season.
Dior, Valentino, Fendi, Chanel, Giorgio Armani Privé and Schiaparelli are the titans of haute couture but there is an emergence of new generation testing the boundaries. These designers include Thom Browne an American designer who celebrated the 20th anniversary of his brand by holding his first ever haute couture show, Julien Dossena, the creative mind behind Paco Rabanne and this season's guest designer at Jean Paul Gaultier, joined forces with Demna, who persistently pursued his unconventional approach to haute couture at Balenciaga.
Here are my top three designers that stood out during fashion week:
1. Fendi
Photos: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Kim Jones' latest haute couture collection for Fendi was defined by a sense of graceful fluidity, showcasing exquisite, draped silhouettes and luxurious, pliable fabrics. Jones explained, "This season, our focus was on achieving fluidity, draping, and shaping through couture techniques, blending these aspects with a contemporary attitude." The inspiration extended to Delfina Delettrez Fendi's inaugural high jewellery collection, infusing the garments with a distinct artistic essence.
Delfina's high jewellery designs was the foundation for the collection’s development. Even sans the jewellery, the colour palette and embellishments conveyed the concept completely transforming the garments into pieces of jewellery themselves. Flesh tones and hues of rare stones such as black diamonds, rubies and sapphires were the predominant colour scheme, emanating a harmonious interplay of softness and solidity, flesh, and gem.
This approach imbued the collection with an aura of intricate uniqueness: meticulous pattern cutting allowed several garments to possess only a single seam, while shearling pieces were intricately crafted with delicate Fendi chevrons. The grand finale of the show featured a series of looks, each accompanied by a "jewel box minaudière," representing the epitome of craftsmanship. The shimmering palettes of these looks demanded over 1000 hours of painstaking handwork, culminating in a breathtaking display of artistry.
2. Gaurav Gupta
Photos: Gaurav Gupta
Presenting his second haute couture display in Paris, Gaurav Gupta unveiled a Fall 2023 assemblage inspired by the Hiranyagarbha, a concept from Vedic philosophy signifying the origin of the universe.
In a preview video shared on Instagram prior to the runway showcase, Gupta elucidated, "As per the ancient Indian scriptures, the Vedas, this is the genesis. It's the very outset, the golden illumination, the point of inception. The sheer purity of this creation is truly captivating to me."
Gupta had earlier conveyed to Fashionista – an online magazine, his identification as a conceptual thinker, evident in his initial haute couture collection rooted in the notion of zero and numerology. For the Fall 2023 line, the elegant essence of the Hiranyagarbha is translated into each ensemble through sinuous curves, ornamental flourishes, and most literally, by the incorporation of a golden thread running throughout the collection. The assortment remains loyal to Gupta's established aesthetic—architectural, voluminous, and theatrical—while echoing cosmic attributes. The draping and contours evoke imagery of planetary rings, and the embellishments resemble particles of interstellar matter.
3. Thom Browne
Photos: Thom Browne
Thom Browne is known for his flair and did not live down to his reputation for his debut at Paris fashion week. Guiding his audience discreetly, the American designer beckoned them through the baroque monument's rear entrance, leading them up weathered flights of wooden stairs to the heart of the stage where the runway awaited, encircled by attendees on either side. As the show commenced, the curtain ascended to unveil a complete theatre ambiance — red velvet seats and ornate gilded balconies adorned with a procession of cardboard cutouts, each depicting a man in a grey suit and sunglasses.
Models descended at a slow pace with their ginormous platform shoes, walking by a flock of pigeons under fabric Halting beneath a colossal, grey bell veiled in fabric that dominated the backdrop. A few donned avian-themed headgear, while others sported bandages swathed around their heads, juxtaposed with intricate grey wigs. Browne amplified the proportions of dresses, inflating them into balloon-esque sleeves. Tweed ensembles and pleated skirts found companionship with lengthy coats embellished with pigeons or maritime elements like starfish.
Haute Couture; a dying art?
Haute Couture is a widespread word that anyone with an interest in fashion has heard. It has first emerged back in the 19th century; haute couture refers to the creation of exclusive brands where the garments are very detail oriented, made with high quality materials and are entirely hand sewn. It has become an integral part of the fashion industry. The term is now used synonymously with ‘custom made’ garments made in fashion capitals such as London, Paris, New York, or Milan.
Couture craftsmanship represents an exclusive and meticulously managed realm, accessible only through invitation. It falls under the jurisdiction of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) in Paris.
Although many fashion writers and enthusiasts like to speculate the relevancy of Haute Couture, it seems to be thriving. Even though only a very minimal percentage of population can afford the pieces, it has a huge fan base. Haute Couture seems to be going through a ‘revival’ with brands like Balmain, Celine and Givenchy stepping up and with each year season the Chambre Syndicale de la haute couture welcomes guest designers.
In conclusion haute couture can’t die as there will always well-off people looking for that ‘exclusive’ accessory to make them unique. Although there were a few failed attempts by designers such as Christian Lacroix, Jean-Paul Gaultier, and Theirry Mugler, the key for haute couture to stay in business is to advertise designer handbags, high-end makeup, upscale toiletries and etc. After all creativity and skill are celebrated without the affetcs of commerce only during Haute Couture Week.