Superfine: The Political Stitch in Fashion
The famous favourited Monday arrived once again to the [blue] carpet in New York City: The MET Gala.
On May 5th, the Metropolitan Museum of Art showcased the superfine, the innovative and the much-needed tailored designs however, this theme was not only a creative desire but a historical one too. Ergo, lets understand why fashion is a political liminality that deserves to be discussed more.
The 2025 selected theme was “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style”, this very much exacerbated an obvious style for designers to be inspired by thus being, Black Dandyism.
On the carpet this year we expected to see ambiguity and interdimensional concepts that paid homage to Black history in fashion. Black Dandyism was a key role in the night’s success, many outfits explored the iconic fashion with pocket squares, double breasted jackets and wide-legged trousers but the use of black dandyism isn’t just for aesthetic it’s a political statement. Dandyism is a liminal space in world that has long wanted for defiance and dissent.
The History of Dandyism
Dandyism as a concept is often categorized as an aesthetic but many argue it is much more than style it is rather a protest and emblem of declaration in black history.
The original embodiment of the style begins foremostly with famous regency figure Beau Brummel whom in 18th-century Britain stood out for his finely groomed and dress sense. Brummel perpetually lived by “Don’t talk about your clothes, let your clothes do the talking”; Thus, determining a revolutionary outlook on the influence of elevating personal style and turning it into an art form. The aristocratic period of renaissance was not favoured by Brummel he yet adorned for the polished tailoring offered; Ergo emphasises refinement over extravagance.
Dandy presented fashion as a catalyst for self-expression and borne overt message of subversion against traditional ideologies; this subversion was just the beginning in its influence over Black Dandyism.
Black Dandyism however is much more than its aesthetic; it was a notion of rebellion, power and resistance. Dandy was a movement, a space in which where Black people have been alienated, it became a vehicle to drive community.
The intertwining of European influence and Black culture began to emerge in the post-emancipation period however came larger in the 1920’s Harlem Renaissance. Harlem was a breeding ground for Black intellectual and artistic development; Notable figures like Beauford Delaney and Jessie R. Fauset were a part of the revolution thus breaking barriers in literature, art and poetry. However, fashion was also an immense factor within in the cultural revolution.
On the Catwalk
Black Dandy in Harlem was an assertion of their place in society. While it once represented an aristocratic lifestyle it now illustrated a subversion against the traditionality of the period. In modern fashion, Dandy is very much still alive in the current political climate. Balmain is one fashion house in particular who is reimagining the influence of Black Dandyism on the runway with its innovative and opulent suits.
To have a Met Gala theme that illustrates the history and adoration for Black fashion aids in showcasing the global influence of black fashion. The carpet celebrated culture and couture in an excellent presentation giving black influence the recognition it deserves.
Fashion Is Political
To argue that fashion is not an inherent politic act is to be living behind a rose-tinted view. In the current socio-economic and political world, we exist in, every action perpetuates a politically, economical statement. Therefore, to have a theme that represents and celebrates Black influence over the fashion industry at one of the biggest fashion events of the year is a brilliant ode to the community and incredible designers.
Written by Ella Rose